When it comes to jeans, there are many different shapes, sizes, fabrics, and colours to choose from. Think about light blue skinny jeans or dark grey slim fit jeans. But did you know that there are also different types of denim techniques? For example, selvedge (or selvage). Let’s dive into what it is, how it’s made, and how you can see if jeans are made with the selvedge technique.
What is selvedge in denim?
The term ‘selvedge denim’, or selvage in American English, refers to a high-quality, dense and tightly woven denim fabric woven on traditional shuttle looms. The key feature of selvedge denim is its self-edge finishing, often with a contrasting coloured thread (usually red or white). The fabric is finished directly off the loom, preventing fraying and unravelling.
A brief history of selvedge denim
Originally, selvedge fabrics were woven on authentic shuttle looms. In the mid to late 1900s, however, these shuttle looms were replaced by modern projectile looms to speed up production. For reference, projectile looms are about ten to fifteen times faster than shuttle looms.
The use of authentic shuttle looms ended in the 1970s and 1980s. But not for long. As interest in traditional weaving techniques and quality grew, Japanese denim brands began using authentic shuttle looms again in the 1990s. This is why Japanese selvedge denim jeans are popular today.
How is selvedge denim made?
Selvage denim is woven on an old-style shuttle loom. The fabric is woven by passing a wooden shuttle (which carries the weft threads (the horizontal filling threads)) back and forth through tightly stretched warp threads (the vertical threads), creating the self-edges. The heddles lift and lower the warp to form a shed, allowing the shuttle to pass through, while a reed beats the weft into place for a tight, durable weave.
What makes selvedge denim jeans special? 4 reasons
You may be wondering why selvedge denim differs from other denim techniques. There are several reasons for this, which we would like to share with you below.
1. Craftsmanship
The creation of salvage jeans is a slow, time-consuming process. Although it's a labour-intensive process, it's the traditional craftsmanship that gives the denim its unique character.
2. High-quality
Selvage denim is a dense and tight fabric, making it strong and durable. Although a modern fabric mill can use the same quality yarns, dyes and designs, the craftsmen pay meticulous attention to detail. This results in strong seams, exceptional rivets and well-crafted buttons. They build a reputation for making quality products.
3. Sustainable
Because selvedge denim is strong and durable, it lasts longer (if you take care of it properly). This means you can wear selvedge jeans year after year, which results in fewer purchases and less waste. And that is better for the environment.
4. Personal style
Many people appreciate the historical authenticity of selvedge denim. That's why this famous denim is often seen as part of a community where you can be yourself and show your personal style. Icons like Elvis Presley and James Dean were known for their denim outfits.
Selvedge vs. raw denim jeans
Raw denim jeans and selvedge denim jeans are commonly confused. But to be clear, they are not the same:
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Selvedge refers to how the fabric is woven, with self-finished edges.
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Raw refers to unwashed denim, straight off the roll. It hasn’t gone through any pre-washing process.
Why are selvedge jeans more expensive?
If you're looking for selvedge jeans , you'll see that the price is higher than a ‘regular’ pair of jeans. This is because the fabric is woven on old-fashioned shuttle looms, which are slower than modern machines. These old shuttle looms also require a lot of maintenance to keep them weaving. Another possible reason is that skilled artisans make small batches of selvedge denim jeans, rather than fast-fashion mass production.
How do you tell if jeans are selvedge?
To determine if your pair of jeans has self-edges, simply turn up the cuffs and inspect the seams on the inside. If the edges appear finished and the selvedge threads are a different colour to the fabric — often seen in shades of red or white — then congratulations, you have a pair of salvaged jeans.
How to recognise fake selvedge?
Unfortunately, some brands try to cash in on the selvedge (or selvage) trend without using real selvedge fabric. Here are five tips to help you spot the fakes. But first, these are just guidelines, and there are exceptions to every rule.
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Look at the edge: A fake selvedge edge often looks poorly made, or it might simply be sewn on top.
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Inspect the weave: If the fabric looks thin, lightweight, or loose, it’s probably not authentic selvage denim.
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Check the details: If the details seem sloppy or low-quality, they are likely not real selvedge.
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Research the origin: Authentic selvedge denim often comes from Japan or the USA, such as Japanese selvedge jeans. If the jeans are made elsewhere or the origin is unclear, they could be fake.
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Consider the price: If the salvage jeans are surprisingly cheap, there’s a good chance they aren’t the real deal.
Want to buy selvedge denim? Choose MUD Jeans!
After reading this article, you know everything about selvedge (or selvage). Are you excited about this craftsmanship, and do you want to buy a pair of selvedge denim jeans? At MUD Jeans, you will find a stunning collection of selvedge denim jeans that come in different fits and colours.
Each pair of our selvedge jeans is made with organic cotton and post-consumer recycled denim that make the planet cooler. What are you waiting for? Your perfect pair is waiting! Shop your favourite denim pair at MUD Jeans now.
